How to Reupholster an Antique Chair
This week we’re continuing to make progress on our Master Bedroom renovation, with lots of DIY and design projects happening. Projects I’ve put off for months are finally getting done, and that’s always exciting. At the top of my list has been reupholstering a pair of antique chairs I purchased last year
This week I wanted to share some pointers on how to reupholster an antique chair, including a few basic steps and the tools I use most frequently on reupholstery projects.
How to Reupholster an Antique Chair
Step 1: Remove the old stuff
As with all renovation projects, you have to start by removing the old stuff. In this case, you’ll begin by ripping off the old fabric and trim. Start with the trim. It’s just glued-on, so it comes off pretty easily. Next, try and loosen a corner of the fabric, and with a pair of locking pliers rip off the old fabric. If you’re lucky you’ll also get a lot of the old staples taken out this way. Try and save the old fabric and trim. You’ll want to use them to measure and cut your new materials.
Step 2: Remove those old staples
Once you’ve ripped off as much of the old fabric as you can, you’ll want to tackle any remaining staples. I work my way around the chair seat and back, removing as many of the old staples as I possibly can. You’ll want to invest in the CS Osborne Staple Remover #124 and maybe the CS Osborne Staple Remover #1066. These tools are essential when removing those old staples. This video helps explain how to use both of those tools.
Step 3: Remove the old dacron and foam
Now you’ll remove the under-layers, and it’s anyone’s guess what’s under there. I’ve found horsehair and other household items and supplies. It’s always an adventure. I prefer to strip my chairs back to the frame and the webbing, and the springs (if your chair has those). Once you’ve gotten down to these components, it’s time to restore the chair frame.
Step 4: Restore the chair frame
I prefer to keep wooden furniture unpainted, and just restore any knicks or bruises. For a quick touch-up, I like to use Howard’s restore a finish. On some projects, such as the barrel back caned chair I worked on last year, I’ll take the frame all the way back to the raw wood and re-apply the stain and the polyurethane. On other projects I’ve used a fine grade steel wool to go over the frame, and then applied a furniture wax for a natural wood look.
Step 5: Putting it all back together
Now let’s re-assemble everything! Examine your webbing and make sure that it’s sturdy and well-attached to the frame. You can always add more webbing by weaving it in (using a criss-cross / basketweave method) and attaching it to your chair frame with your pneumatic staple gun. I’ve only had to replace chair webbing on a few of my pieces.
Chair foam is usually the foundational layer that I start with, and it comes in different thicknesses (1”, 2”, 3”, 4”). Hold up a few different options next to the chair to see what thickness best suits your piece. I usually use 1”-2” foam for the back, and 3”-4” foam for the seat. If you’re upholstering a piece that will see a lot of daily use (dining chairs, primary sofa, etc) make sure that you choose a high density foam, which will hold up better over time.
Using your old chair foam as a guide, trace an outline onto the new foam. Alternatively you can also lay the new foam over the chair seat and use a permanent marker to trace the outline. Then, using a sawing action with a serrated knife, cut through the foam following your outline.
Step 6: Let’s add dacron
Dacron is what secures the foam in place. Use your old piece of dacron to outline and cut the new piece, or you can just re-use the old one if it’s in good condition. Drape your dacron over the foam, fire up your Pneumatic staple gun and Air compressor, and begin stapling the dacron into place. Add a few staples in the front then pull the dacron as taught as humanly possible, and add a few staples in the back. Continue working in this manner, switching from side to side and pulling the dacron nice and tight, until you have the dacron and foam fully secured and a line of staples around the perimeter of the piece.
There are two things that I can’t stress enough in step #6. You need to be using a pneumatic staple gun if you want this upholstery job to look nice. Handheld staple guns just don’t cut it. Also, the tighter you pull your dacron and your fabric as you’re stapling it into place, the better your piece will look.
Step 7: Let’s add fabric
Now let’s get fabric on your chair. Hopefully you saved the original fabric and can use it as a guide. As we’ve done in other steps, trace the outline of the original fabric onto your new fabric and add an extra two inches around the perimeter. If you’re upholstering a seat and chair back, be aware of how the pattern aligns, and match it as closely as you can. Pro tip: If you’re upholstering multiple chairs, try and place the pattern in the exact same position on each chair.
Using the same method that you used in Step 6 with your dacron, start stapling your fabric into place working front to back, and then side to side. The most important thing is making sure that your pattern stays straight, and that the fabric is TIGHT. Try to avoid any buckling, pinching, or pleating in the fabric. You may have to make adjustments, so keep your staple remover handy. Finally, use your scissors to trim away the excess fabric and dacron.
Step 8: Trim it out
The final step is adding trim, and there are a myriad of trim options available. You can use a readymade trim like gimp, or a decorative trim like you might find at a craft store. 1/2” grosgrain ribbon could also be a nice look. On all of my chairs I sew custom double welt piping. I talk more about the process of sewing double welt piping in this blog post. For these particular chairs, I tried out something new and sewed mini box pleated skirts, and attached a piece of contrast piping.
No matter what trim you choose, you’ll attach it using a hot glue gun. The main purpose of trim is to cover the line of staples. I like to start attaching trim at the very center of the front of the chair. Make sure to have one continuous piece along the front. You can tuck the joins along the side or the back of the chair, or conceal them behind a chair leg. Continue until all of the perimeter and the legs of the chair have been wrapped in trim.
If you’ve made it this far, then bravo to you! You should now have a beautiful, newly upholstered antique chair.
Tools & Supplies
Below is a handy list of the tools & supplies that I regularly use to reupholster my antique chairs:
Before
After
I hope this tutorial on how to reupholster an antique chair has been helpful, and that you try out your own upholstery projects at home. If you do, I’d love to hear about it in the comments below. Also, be sure to let me know if there are additional DIY upholstery topics you’d like me to cover it in a future blog post.
Next weekend is the BIG REVEAL of our Master Bedroom (June 24-27). I can’t wait to share with you all that we’ve accomplished in just a few short weeks. Until then!